The Secret: Summer Saturnalia

 

Regular readers of this blog and those who know me well will be aware that I’m not usually a great fan of Christmas. It seemed a really good idea when I was six and the man in the red suit arrived via the chimney. However, since that period the idea somehow lost its appeal.

The Long Room

The secret it would appear is to try and do something so unlike Christmas but retaining the naming conventions (or the vast majority) that it passes by painlessly. That was certainly my experience of Christmas 2014. So for others who usually struggle to cope with the Saturnalian festivities here is a brief summary of my most enjoyable festive period in recent memory.

Setting up the ‘long room’ was perhaps the first and most significant difference in preparation for Christmas dinner. The concept of an outdoor Christmas dinner in the UK would normally include a final course consisting of two doctors and a social worker.

Contrary to popular belief, it is possible to dine al fresco in the UK but never, never at Christmas. Setting the table and hanging Christmas decorations in 26 degrees was another significant difference. I even had time for a thankfully brief introduction to some of the countries flaura finding a red-back spider scurrying away from under one of the cushion seats. Our arachnoid guest was quickly removed from play and didn’t rejoin the celebrations at any point. Having made sure he/she was the only guest trying to crash the party the outside dining space was complete.

The Seafood addition

Another benefit of the Australian Christmas (at least in Melbourne) was the addition of a seafood course. Whilst the odd salmon (usually smoked) makes an appearance at home, it would typically be around New Year. Thanks to Jevon’s 5am dash to the Victoria Street markets we had a range of prawns and oysters, all incredibly fresh and cooked to perfection.

To Australian friends, so far so typical. However, the mix of summer weather, fresh oysters and the phrase ‘Happy Christmas’ was so incongruous that any comparisons to meals at home would be difficult to make.

The main course was both delicious and reassuringly familiar including turkey, cranberries and all the trimmings, but with the added step of considering whether you have enough sun screen with your turkey.

One way to confuse the Brit is to ask where the bon-bons are just before the main course arrives. For a moment I had a mental image of chocolate covered toffee sprinkled with icing sugar as a follow on to oysters. However, I was quickly advised that bon-bons are what I would know as Christmas crackers. (With emphasis on the ‘crack’ for those who remember Margo Ledbetter). Unbelievably I even put on the Christmas hat -which fitted (UK manufacturers please note).

A truly naughty Santa!

It’s probably worth taking an aside to explain how the task of buying appropriate gifts for every living relative in your extended family was handled. The Secret Santa concept has landed firmly in Australia so I had just one person to buy for in the Kris Kringle present exchange.

However, there was what I suspect is a wholly Aussie alternative which certainly got everyone engaged and interacting well. This was known as ‘Naughty Santa’.

Basically, you  start with a box of presents equal in number to that of your guests. Then after drawing lots, the first recipient opens their present. Obviously, this is (at least temporarily) their present.

However, kleptomania is still permitted (at least in parts of Victoria). When the next guest takes their turn, they can choose to open a new present or steal any one of the preceeding presents from their recipient. If your gift is stolen by a naughty Santa, you have the choice of opening one of the remaining presents or stealing a present (however you can’t steal back from the person who just stole from you while they have your gift). This can result in cascading kleptomania and a long gift giving – but (say it secretly Richard) is also quite a lot of fun.

Sweet sweets

It has been said (from time to time) that I have a sweet tooth or can be something of a pudding monster. Forget traditional Christmas or plum puddings (which I had previously thought  I was addicted to) – none of them here.

Instead, a selection of trifles (tropical and boozy), bread and butter pudding, cheesecake, trifle – well you get the idea. Each of the components contributed by different guests and more than enough for even the most veracious pudding monsters.

We were doubly lucky as with that much food (and consequently left-overs) the fridge in our flat was called into service for the overflow. I can’t quite account for the gradual reduction in the mango and passion fruit trifle whilst it was in there – but I’m certainly glad we had the spare fridge space.

What was striking was that the television didn’t feature in the day at all. Everyone had more than enough to discuss, share and enjoy without having to resort to the anonymity of the couch potato.

The Macedon Test

One final difference for Christmas Day was the Macedon Test. Cricket on Christmas Day with a significant risk of being sun frazzled was the icing on the cake. I’ve still got some local customs to experience (this year’s donger races were cancelled for reasons nobody can now recall – don’t ask what a donger race is!)

A relaxed evening at which a very pleasant selection of Australian wines were consumed finished off the celebrations – although I must admit to having a slightly hazier recollection of those events thanks to a rather maliciously sneaky Margaret River Sav.

So all in all a very different and enjoyable Summer Christmas which is one I’ll always remember for all the right reasons – but probably never fully get my head around.

So, from a non Christmas fan, Australia has a convert to Summer Christmas which should be wrapped and exported pdq.

 

So much Government: Thoughts of an unexpected constitutional monarchist.

The second institution I visited whilst in Canberra was the Parliament of the Commonwealth of Australia. For the Brits reading this, please don’t confuse this with our usual meaning of the word Commonwealth. – Perhaps a little explanation and context is in order (with apologies to my new and existing Australian friends for the bits I get wrong). So firstly a brief revisitation of the history of Australia for my fellow Brits.

Captain James Cook RN

The first record of Europeans sailing into Australian waters is dated around 1606, and includes their observations of the land known as Terra Australis Incognita (unknown southern land). This was by Dutchman, Willem Janszoon. A former buccaneer, William Dampier, was the first Englishman to land on the Australian mainland ( 5th January 1688 in his ship the Cygnet).He was the first European to report Australia’s peculiar ‘large hopping animals’. Capt James Cook didn’t chart the Australian East Coast until 1770 in HM Barque Endeavour.

So between 1606 and 1770 numerous contacts were made and around that time (not least because of the British East India Company) a number of interactions with Europeans took place. Contrary to popular belief in parts of Europe, not all those landing on Australian soil were convicts. In fact, Britain and France conducted most ‘transportations’. The first British was ‘cast into exile’ according to Court records in 1788. The last transportation took place from England in 1868.

As a result of these to-ings and fro-ings, six States emerged being (alphabetically) New South Wales, Queensland, South Australia, Tasmania (formerly Van Diemen’s Land), Victoria and Western Australia. Details of their evolution can be found here.

Then there are the territories. These are lesser jurisdictions and are not ‘full states’. In many senses they are governed directly from the Federal Commonwealth. The mainland territories are: Australian Capital Territory (Canberra and surrounds) and Northern Territory. In addition, the staunchly independent Australia (and rightly too) holds a number of overseas territories being: Ashmore and Cartier Territory, Australian Antarctic Territories, Cocos (Keeling) Islands, Coral Sea Islands, Christmas Island, Heard and McDonald Islands, Indian Ocean Territories, Jervis Bay Territory and Norfolk Island.

I wont go into the differences between States and Territories except arguably the most important difference being the number of representatives elected to the Senate (upper house).

Purely for the purposes of shared understanding and explanation to a UK audience, think of the modern Federated setup in this way. Consider the Government in Canberra to be the National Government of Australia. (A phrase which causes some difficulty in Australia) The six original states can be considered as sovereign states much like those in the US. However, they are also in some senses a kind of super charged Local Authority in terms a Brit would understand.

Flag of Australia

The first challenge to the brain of a UK visitor could be summed up in the question “How many countries exist on the mainland of Australia?”
Surely the answer is One ? – Well of course in many senses it is, but students of Australian constitutional law (and those who have them as their significant others) will tell you that each of the six original states is a ‘sovereign state’ in it’s own right. Each with Queen Elizabeth II as their head of state.

Nobody I have asked (and I’ve asked a few) has been able to tell me the difference between a ‘sovereign state’ and a country.  However, they all pointed out that the recognition of the original six states is preserved by the Constitution of the Commonwealth of Australia. Interestingly, that Commonwealth Constitution was enacted by the UK Parliament. Powers to the Australian territories were in turn granted by the Commonwealth of Australia with the States being autonomous in their own right.

The States were brought together in Federation in 1901 (much later than I had thought) with that overarching entity being the Commonwealth of Australia. Some Australians have made a comparison between this relationship and that of the member states of the EU. In that model, Canberra becomes a type of Supranational body. With these nuggets of information and background firmly planted in my head, we made our way to tour the Australian Parliament.

Australian Parliament

The new Australian Parliament buildings are situated at one end of  Anzac Parade. The architects and designers were reportedly extremely keen to ensure that the Parliament was not sitting ‘above’ the people it represented but rather that the people were above it’s Parliament.

This thinking led to the excavation of a large hill in Canberra where the Parliament was then constructed and the hill rebuilt around and above the Parliament. Indeed, you can walk up the hill to the point immediately under the rather impressive and imposing flagpole. At that point you are indeed above the Parliamentary chambers.

It was a huge political statement to design a Parliament in this way, although arguably only partially successful. The hill is still significantly higher than most of Canberra and some height above the old Parliamentary buildings it replaced.

The Government is made up of two houses (broadly following the Westminster model). The lower house being the House of Representatives with the upper house being the Senate. Both are elected (although at different times and for different periods of office). Both are also considered to have parity within the governmental structures.

House of Representatives

The House of Representatives has a familiar feel to members of other Commonwealth countries and certainly to anyone familiar with the Westminster Parliament.

The members of the house are elected by a form of preferred alternative vote and it isn’t unusual to have a significant number (in excess of 20) parties and/or candidates on a ballot paper for the lower house.

The green (a blue-green representing the nations gum tree leaves) mirrors the UK House of Commons. Less adversarial in shape, the basic  structures are very similar including the dispatch boxes, bar of the Commons and Mace representing the Crown (although not it’s power as in the UK).

In other regards, the lower house felt very familiar to me although ironically, placing the Parliament in its own government centric territory did make me wonder whether it feels any more relevant and representative of Australia? Some of the same difficulties around the ‘Westminster village’ seemed to be present by virtue of having created a government centric territory.

The Australian Senate

The upper house (Senate) had a similarly superficial similarity. The red house (similar to the house of lords) is actually more shades of pink to represent some of the flowering species in Australia.

The Westminster ‘thrones’ are substituted for maple chairs for the Governor General. The only other significant difference in layout is  the reallocation of the ‘Lords Spiritual’ benches (Bishops and archbishops in the UK house of lords) to political advisors.

However, the differences in this house are more profound. Firstly it is a wholly elected house. Secondly, it views itself as having parity with the House of Representatives within the broader Government. This is subtly but importantly different to the UK where the House of Lords considers itself a legitimate amending house but ultimately subordinate in terms of the will of the House of Commons.

As I toured the Parliament building I found myself experiencing an unexpected hardening of views relating to the UK political system. There just seems to be so much government fighting for the same territory in Australia. I should stress that I’m not making a value judgement or criticism of the system in Australia. Given the history described above it has evolved organically to suit the needs of the country. However, it made me more firm in the view that the current system in the UK actually works quite well for us too.

I wouldn’t (and couldn’t) justify creating a Westminster system from scratch for a new State. Equally, I suspect many Australians would iron out some of their Constitutional idiosyncrasies and would equally not start afresh from where they are today?

Canberra Parliamentary Building Flagpole

As someone brought up pre-devolution in the UK, I struggle with the number of Parliaments and Governments in play. Each State has its own Parliament and Supreme Court. Similarly Canberra has the Commonwealth (Australian) Parliament with reserved national policy powers. These include the right to issue currency, defence, immigration and similarly national issues. However, as three Australian lawyers have told me the legal community could argue for ever over those interpretations and the extent to which the State and Federal powers overlap. I have started to see similar debates over the UK West Lothian question and ‘independence’ for Scotland and Wales.

Whilst accepting that the House of Lords is an anachronistic hang-over from Supreme rule of the Monarchy, it is an effective second chamber despite being appointed. Two Australian lawyers have mistakenly commented that the UK has no upper house – so it isn’t just my preconceptions that have been challenged during my visit.

Despite it’s non elected status, (some might say because of it), there is no ‘battle for supremacy’ between the two Houses of Parliament. Nor does electoral drive play as prominent a part as I have seen in both the US and Australia.

I could continue to consider the differences here. As you can imagine it has led to some interesting but always polite and good natured political discussions with Vaughan. However, I think I have settled on the position that both systems serve their respective countries well given their history,  culture and national  psyche. However, they would probably not transfer well one to the other.

Perhaps there is more truth in the suggestion that we all end up with the governments we deserve.

 

 

Australia: First impressions of an understated country

As we all know snap decisions and first impressions are something we are taught to avoid and treat with caution. I believe these are felt to be high risk strategies likely to play into prejudice and preconception.

Stereotypes are dangerous

I must also admit that particular piece of advice is one I have always been very keen to ignore.

I hope I am bright and balanced enough not to believe any stereotypical view on a nation, its peoples or indeed much else. However, they can and have provided a useful shorthand on occasions.

I have certainly learned to trust my first impressions. Although they can and have been wrong, as I have grown older the instances in which this has been the case has continued to reduce.

So, it is with some trepidation and self-censorship that I make some very quick judgements about Australia based on little more than 24 hours. Indeed, as I say that, it’s obvious that any belief these would be insightful or accurate are specious. However, they were so counter intuitive and strong that they were worth recording.

As someone who has both lived and worked in London I am familiar with the frequent comments and stereotypes.

It appeared (at least in the early 1990’s) that if it were not for Australian students it would have been impossible to get a drink in any bar in Earls Court or the West End of London. However, I’m ashamed to say these superficial views are so far from the experience I have had in recent months. My first 48 hours in Australia have been refreshing, charming and deeply reassuring about the human condition.

So often, the Australian persona we have in mind can be brash, outspoken and rather unworldly-wise. Nothing could be further from the truth and I find myself in a country where I feel very much at home.

So far, the limited number of people I have met have been honest, direct, friendly and with a real interest to engage in conversation. Parents appear to have an unusually refreshing belief that they have at least some passing responsibility for their children.

Who knows what the next few days have in store, but I think the UK could certainly learn (or perhaps re-familiarise themselves) some basic manners, class and charm from their Australian cousins.

 

The greatest journeys start with a single step.

It’s strange how time tricks you with its twists and eddies. Six months ago, booking a trip to Australia was an exciting but relatively distant dream.
As the next couple of months progressed, the planning, choices and preparations seemed purposeful and enjoyable, yet the journey still seemed remote.

The addition of a countdown clock on my mobile phone seems to have taken place eons ago. I recall setting the target date and seeing it set 132 days to go.
As those days have decreased, I have been aware of the approach of the journey but some how the reality still seemed somehow detached.

So we jump forward 130 days with packing in full flow, last minute checks made and all arrangements in place. Now despite the proximity of my departure, I’m so busy that I don’t actually have the time to reflect on the journey I was about to undertake.

Today, the day before our flight, I have just arrived at the local train station heading for London. Despite being repeatedly dive bombed by a Kamikaze pigeon with massive attitude, I found myself able to relax for the first time in days.
When you consider I’m still the best part of 48 hours from my destination (Melbourne), I’m feeling remarkably chipper.